Jeera aloo

Jeera aloo is a north Indian dry potato sabzi built on one spice: whole cumin seeds (jeera) crackled in hot ghee until they scent the whole pan. It is the sabzi that turns up beside dal and roti at dhabas and in home tiffins, where a dry potato dish travels better than a gravied one.

This version follows the dry-sabzi method rather than the gravy one. The potatoes are boiled whole with their skins, cooled, peeled and cut into cubes, then fried in a cumin-heavy tadka with turmeric, chilli and coriander powder. Because the cubes go into the pan already cooked, the frying has one job: to crisp the edges and coat every cube, which keeps the jeera crackle through to the last bite. Gravy versions, where the potatoes simmer in tomato and water, soften the cubes and drown the cumin; this one keeps the pan dry.

The texture is the point: golden, spice-crusted cubes with crisp edges and a soft centre. Amchur at the end gives the tang; a squeeze of lemon works the same way. Baby potatoes can replace the big ones, halved and kept in their skins. For a mild version for children, drop the green chilli and halve the chilli powder.